Sunday, October 18, 2009

Protests, Paintings and Markets

Friday was a day like none other. It was actually kinda like 5 days in one. I had a class at 8:15am and almost froze in attempting to get there. The sign at the pharmacy said 6.9 degrees celsius - but I swear it was lying. The class was good, except for the part where I didn't know that I had to teach the group (I still don't know why teachers think it's ok to not tell you their plans for the first class...). The students in this class are really talented. They range between 17 and 21 years old, and are very well spoken and very interested in teaching. I didn't even need to do a lesson because they had so many questions for me and general interest in the difference between France and the US. I'm really excited to work with this group - also, they are specializing in design and architecture, so will get to talk to them mostly about art and architecture (love it!).

After class I finished up my social security paperwork and job paperwork - so now I officially have health insurance and might actually get paid by the end of October! The excitement of being done with forms put a spring in my step, so as I left work I couldn't have been in a better mood. I caught my first bus, had a nice ride and then waited for my second bus. And waited and waited and waited ... The 5 was not coming. Another young guy was waiting with me and we started talking about the situation (and he understood me!). A different bus pulls up and tells us that the 5 isn't coming because of an agricultural protest blocking transportation in the city center... well crap. Where I live is a bit too far to walk (and I was wearing high heels since I had just come from work) so I decided to do what any logical would do - go and see the protest!

As I was walking toward the city center I was stopped by a man who handed me a sack with an apple, an onion and a whole bunch of wheat grains. Then he asked me to sign some form - I said I was American and he said no big deal - so I signed it mostly so that they would leave me alone. What I signed? I have no idea. So then as I'm walking along I pass a truck that's hurling 5 kilo sacks of potatoes onto the streets.

A group of people eventually gather around the truck asking the man to throw them more gently because they want to eat them - so pretty soon I find myself in the crowd being handed a huge sack of potatoes. So there I am, in heels and work wear with a sack of apples and onions AND a 5 k sack of potatoes. I sat down for a while to watch the action - there had to have been at least a couple hundred people marching and yelling being followed by several farm trucks (one of which almost ran me over). I was content to just sit and watch until they started firing guns into the air - then I decided to leave. I started walking toward Caitlin's place (hoping to unload the potatoes) and meet a woman in the street who kinda follows me around for a bit asking about the potatoes - I eventually give her 1/4 of the sack worth of potatoes (I tried to unload the whole thing on her, but she said it was too heavy to carry). I finally make it to Caitlin's place - and decided to meet up with Seamus for lunch. On the way out I run into an English teacher who wanted to come to see the protest. So back out we went.

Most of the action was over by the time we got there, but we did discover the streets to be covered in rotting food and regular food as well as a pile of tires on fire in the middle of the road along with a pile of manure on fire. We also found out why the busses had stopped running - the farmers had created a blockade with a huge amount of tires which was blocking off the main road for transportation. Along with all the food in the streets were a handful of French people rooting through it attempting to find anything edible (and therefore free). In the end I had 1 head of lettuce, 1 sack of onions, 1 sack of potatoes and a handful of beets (I ate the apple for lunch).

In the end, it felt a lot like being in the French revolution. Things burning in the street, rotten food everywhere, people rifling through to find a free meal and exchanging their finds to end up with some of everything. Here's some pictures:

Crushed onions

rotting food in the streets

manure + protest sign

potatoes + tires in the fountain (and people trying to salvage the good ones)

harvesting potatoes and beets in the streets

barricading the streets

The amazing thing? The streets were clean by 5pm and by the next morning it looked like nothing had happened. Amazing.

After all of this we had a very lovely lunch following by a really fun evening.

Yesterday Caitlin, Seamus and I decided that it would be lots of fun to make paintings of the Joan of Ark statue - best experience ever! The three of us perched ourselves on a little window ledge, busted out our 7 tempra paints meant for children and went to work. Everyone walking by looked very entertained - some even stopped and chatted with us. The three paintings turned out pretty amazing - but you wouldn't know that we were all painting the same thing! Best souvenir ever! Here's what the square looks like, sadly I don't yet have pictures of the three paintings:


This morning I ventured to an outdoor stuff market (like a flea market, except very french). I ended up with an amazing copper pot for my mom and a great postcard from the 1900s! I love France!

October 15 - Culturally sensitive topics and representing America

So today was quite the day in teacher / American ambassador land. My first class of the day which is usually at 8:15am was canceled, so I got to sleep in til 8:30 (holy crap, what is happening to me? since when is sleeping til 8:30 sleeping in?!?). My next class, which is a double period of English with the same teacher as my double period on Tuesday turned into quite the adventure. I had never met this class, so I thought that we’d just be doing introductions (which had been implied yesterday when I saw her) - but lo and behold - we get into the class and the teacher turns to me and says, “ok, here’s your group, I’ll send you the rest next period. Have a nice lesson!” SHIT! Essentially, my worst nightmare! Fortunately, I had been thinking about what do to for my next lesson for a similar group, so I just got to test it out early! The students didn’t seem to notice, and they seemed to have a good time. My premature plans only got me through 45 minutes though, so I’m so glad that I’ve memorized about 10 different games for the different levels, so I was able to play an easy game to fill the time. I hope that never happens again!

After this impromptu 2 hours of teaching I went to meet my first class of BTS students - I’ve been told that some of the students in this grade could be my same age, so I really wasn’t sure what to expect. Well, as with all of my older students they were silent. It’s like pulling teeth to get them to say anything. The teacher - who is a very nice guy - is really interested in American politics, so he starts asking various questions about political issues in the States. It starts off innocent enough - how do I feel about school uniforms? Which, fundamentally, I am against, however I do feel that there are certain situations where they do serve a purpose. So I express my view and ask the students their feelings, which for the most part echoed mine. Then a student asks if school uniforms has impacted the prevalence of guns in schools. UHHHHH. Not exactly what I want to talk about! So I say that I really don’t know (which is the truth). Then we get on the topic of guns and gun control in general. Once again, not exactly the image of the US I want to project - so I do my best to put the issue in as positive of a context as possible. But they of course know quite a bit about the issue, so I finally had to resort to the idea that the US is a safe place, and that as long as you avoid bad neighborhoods you are very safe. (I definitely did not bring up the fact that guns are now allowed in bars in Arizona!) Then a student asks me if young children really accidentally kill each other with their parent’s guns! All I can say is wow. Just then the teacher pipes up, and says, “let’s change the subject.” In my mind: “Oh thank goodness!” But he continues with, “Do you know what the plans are for ground zero? Is it still just a big hole in the ground, or is there some building going on?” ... I’m sure I looked like someone who had just seen a ghost! Of course, I don’t really know (since I avoid most things September 11th related). But then we discussed 9/11 for what felt like an eternity. Some students asked questions about the twin towers and all that (they are all in training to be architects or interior designers - so these are pertinent questions) and then the teacher starts talking about a TV special he had seen with footage of the towers and people’s reactions and how it was really the best documentary about 9/11 that he’d seen yet. He then asks, “do you plan to see it?” All I could think was, “no I don’t plan to see it. Since I have the image of the towers’ collapse forever imprinted in my mind, I really don’t need to see it ever again!” but instead I politely said that it’s still much too painful to see things related to that day and then did everything I possibly could to not well up with tears. I then immediately changed the subject to positive things about America - like California and NYC and national parks and the Grand Canyon! The students got really excited when I told them that I lived in the same state as the Grand Canyon and that I’ve seen it. I also brought up Obama - which usually results in a positive conversation, since most of the French love Obama - except it didn’t work this time! I asked, “what do you guys think about Obama?” Crickets chirp. “What did you think about George Bush?” Heads shake in disgust. “So you like Obama then?” Teacher: “well, he hasn’t really done anything yet - how can we know if we like him?” Ummm. He has done quite a few things, like, you know, improving international relations. So then a student asks what I think about the Nobel Peace Prize being awarded to him. I respond that I think it’s more of a comment on the past presidential policy, but that I’m happy that Obama’s peace initiatives and goals of improving international relations are being recognized in a positive light. It seems a bit odd, but overall I’m happy with the idea. Silence. Apparently the French think it’s silly and premature. Yeah... So, all in all, a successful class.

The really frustrating thing about all this? I’ll only have these students one on one, so I really won’t get a chance to correct their image of my home! Sometimes I forget that it’s so easy to get down on your own country - especially when there are so many things that happen that you don’t really agree with. But the thing is, no matter how frustrated I may get over gun control or other political issues, I have to remember that at the end of the day I am an ambassador for my country. In so many ways it’s my job to create a positive image of the US. I really wish that I could have avoided those subjects all together - but I guess I was able to answer some burning questions? I suppose that it’s necessary to talk about the tough subjects, but I was hoping to be able to avoid it until I could at least create a positive image first. Oh well, C’est la vie.

On a much more positive note, the teacher has invited me for dinner sometime! He has a daughter who is 23 and lives in Paris (and really likes to speak English) - and he thinks that “if you two get along, it might be nice for you if you want to visit Paris sometime.” So nice! And this is the French in a nutshell. Tough talk and then a dinner invitation. And I thought I was blunt!

But even all of these political conversations couldn’t get me down - as I walked out the door to catch the bus, I looked around. And do you know what? I live in France and I love it here!

October 14 - The true joy of France and the surprising joy of teaching

So - I have a cold. A rather mild one, but the kind that makes you lose your voice if you talk too much. And since I’m a teacher now - surprise surprise - I have no voice. Well, I’m not a real teacher, but I do have 12 different classes to keep track of (all at different levels, might I add) and they all call me “Madame” which just makes it all the more official. Although, they only use Madame when they want something or when they think they might be in trouble. My favorite thing that they say is, “euh, Madame, may I go to zee, euh, toilettes? euh, please?” I don’t know why, but I just love this phrase! Especially because they always say toilettes the french way (like, twa-let). The other thing that I just love about teaching is that the kids crack me up! They say the funniest things! For example: Today I met a new class for the first time, I think they were Terminal - which equals our high school seniors, and I got asked on a date by 4 guys at once! HA! This is the first time that this has happened (believe it or not!). So they are all asking me questions ... well, a better way to put it would be that the extreme silence was occasionally punctuated with a half mumbled question ... anyway, so one guy asks me, “did you go to the Paris?” which translates to, “have you ever been to Paris?” Which I answer, “I visited Paris 4 years ago, but I have not been since being here.” Immediately 4 guys go, “euh, would you go le weekend?” translation, “um, would you like to come with me this weekend?” It was SO SMOOTH! I tried my best to stifle a laugh, but I failed. So funny! They are harmless, of course, I just thought it was so brave to ask a new teacher on a date! Oh the French.

Anyway, so I have a cold... and to make myself feel better I made homemade vegetable soup yesterday. There were a ton of leftovers, so on the way home tonight I stopped and bought a fresh baguette. All I can say is, wow! French bread, really and truly, is the very best thing. I was so hungry when I got home that I tore a piece off while waiting for the microwave - simply phenomenal. I don’t know what it is, but the bread here just tastes amazing! I had forgotten that. Danielle and I have been buying baguettes at the grocery store, and they’re good, but this one was just amazing. Needless to say, there’s less than a third of the loaf left. And I’m thinking of going and eating the rest before it gets cold... French bread, as of right now, officially rounds out my top 5 favorite foods. The list goes like this: 1. Roast Chicken; 2. Moules frittes; 3. Enchiladas; 4. Mom’s spaghetti; 5. Real, Fresh, French Bread

Also, more exciting news ... I successfully taught 4 classes on my own! The first class of the day was conducted in the hallway - apparently the key that I was given doesn’t work on the room I was assigned, but we made the best of it. I think the students thought I was crazy, but that’s just a bit of the American way for them - don’t waste time, make the best of the situation. After we finally were let in - by a janitor who lectured me on the not having a key (she ate her words though after I pulled out my key and demonstrated that it wasn’t my fault - then she simply told me to get a key before next time) - we had a lovely time with some very educational games. The next class was the same age and went much better (mostly because we didn’t have to sit in the hallway). I played a game where the kids had to describe a picture that I gave them while I tried to draw it on the board. Funniest thing! One group had a man sitting on a bed - so at first they told me that the man was on the bed - so I drew him standing up. Then they told me that I was wrong and that he was lying on the bed. But that was wrong too. Finally one student goes, he is half on the bed and half off the bed -- so my little stick figure got to be half on the bed and half off the bed. Then -- and this is the funniest -- a girl goes, “no madame, ees head is on the back of the bed” --- that poor man! (for those of you playing along at home: he was sitting on the bed, leaning against the headrest) My last two classes of the day were with my youngest group - their level of English is surprisingly good (though they are hesitant to speak, well, English at least- they say a whole lot in French) and they are really enthusiastic. We played a game kinda like musical chairs, except you have to make a statement describing people in the room and if they statement applies to you then you have to stand up and change chairs. The last person left standing has to make a new statement. For example, you could say, “I know someone who is wearing blue jeans,” and then 7/8th of the class gets up and scrambles for a new seat. This game was hilarious! One student, who was going for the same chair as me actually sat on me! And then she jumped up and goes, “désolee madame!” So cute! Another student shoved me and then promptly apologized and offered me her chair! I love it!

Tomorrow I get to meet 3 new classes, which is always exciting. Although, when I meet these groups they ask so many things. It’s exhausting to think so much about obscure things that I like. I have never answered so many random questions in my life as I have in the past two weeks! The things the kids ask me just crack me up --the younger ones especially, they will ask you anything! I’ve been asked about more movies, TV shows, bands and all around pop culture than you can shake a stick at! They are especially curious about what TV shows I like to watch. A lot of American shows are dubbed into French and broadcast about 3 years behind -- the most popular seem to be Desperate Housewives, Prison Break, Bones, NCIS and CSI. Unfortunately for the kids, I only watch CSI. They always look so sad when I tell them I don’t watch Prison Break (is it even on in the US anymore?) and “Desperate” as they call it. The answer I usually get is, “you not like Eva Longoria? She, euh, loves Tony Parker ... he ees French!” which means, “don’t you like Eva Longoria? She is married to Tony Parker who is French.” To which I always respond, “I like Eva, but I especially love the French!”

And, in case you were wondering: Yes. I am the most ridiculous teacher ever.

oh! and P.S. today while getting a hot chocolate and an apricot croissant I was complimented on my accent! Amazing! I may not be able to say much, but I least I sound good!

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

A big update

So I realized this morning that it’s been way too long since I’ve added to this blog! A lot has happened in this past week - I’ve started teaching, made some new friends, and I’ve been on a few adventures! I’ve both gained and lost confidence in my French speaking ability as well as acquired a cold (awesome!)

Teaching is quite the experience. So far I’ve been limited to introducing myself and answering and asking a lot of questions. Most of my students know my age, that I’m single and that I love food. They know that my favorite actor is Johnny Depp and that I don’t like professional wrestling. The questions they ask sometimes just blow my mind! Last week was a short week for me - I only worked for a few hours on Monday and then a full day on Tuesday. I was supposed to teach / observe on Wednesday but the teacher was giving a test that couldn’t be rescheduled. Thursday we had an assistants training and then on Friday I was told that I didn’t need to come in to work at all. So not much work for week 1! I have yet to meet all of my classes - but for the most part I feel comfortable in this job. I don’t get nervous in front of the students - and they seem to understand me very well. There is only one class where I’m a bit nervous - they’re my last class of the day on Tuesdays and they’re my youngest group (around 15 and 16). They are like wild animals, but on the positive side they talk a lot (just not always in English).

One of my students gave me a very nice tour of Orléans last week -- it was cool because it was more a tour of her life. She took me to her favorite sandwich place for Shwarma and showed me where all the kids go to make out (I’ll be sure to avoid that place!). She also showed me her old high school and where she used to live. It was really neat to see Orléans from a local’s perspective. I got to meet a lot of kids - all of whom were excited to meet a “real American.”

I’ve become very close with two assisants, Seamus from Northern Ireland and Caitlin from Canada. We are all very goofy and have lots of fun doing silly things (we seem to have a weekly tradition of sitting on the pedestal of the Joan of Ark statue). This past weekend we decided to do something fun - but we really couldn’t think of what to do. So Caitlin proposed the brilliant idea of meeting at the train station at 8:45 am and taking the next train. The rules were: the train ride had to be more than one hour and less than 2 hours; there had to be a return train available; and we had to make the absolute best of whereever we ended up. So Saturday morning rolls around and Danielle and I meet Seamus and Caitlin at the station and ended up in Bourges! It turned out to be a really lovely city and we visited their Cathedral and Palais Jacques Couer (the elaborate home of M. Couer who turned out to be the Finance minister of France in the 1440s). After we returned home we went grocery shopping so that we could have a picnic on the Loire - and while in the grocery store we discovered some AMAZING masks and ran into another American assistant - so we all picniced on the Loire with our masks.

As of today I have a rather unpleasant cold, but fortunately I never teach on Mondays - so I was able to rest and prepare my lessons for tomorrow. Tomorrow will be a very long day - however I think the lessons will be fun - hopefully my students agree with me!

Sunday, October 4, 2009

October 3 - The skies may be grey, but all I see is blue!

Yesterday was an absolutely fantastic day.  We had our language assistants orientation which included all language assistants from all of the Orléans-Tours region.  The orientation itself wasn’t super useful - although we did get a nice presentation on our region (we make wine and cheese and grow a lot of wheat) but we did get a chance to meet all the other assistants.  We got a lovely tour of Orléans, which was in French (i.e. I learned a lot, but probably won’t be able to repeat it) in a group of about 10.  In my super cool group there were two N. Irishmen, a Canadian, 3 Americans and a handful of British people.  Well the Canadian is just the sweetest person in the world and the two Irishmen were absolutely hillarious.  After the orientation we went out to a bar in a group of about 20 or so.  I got to meet all kinds of people - several of whom live in Orléans itself!  We stayed out until about midnight and got to meet some German language assistants as well as some random French people.  I got to practice my French - and it’s improved!  I can now carry on a very broken, but understandable conversation!  AMAZING!  A man from Madagascar told Danielle and I about something going on in Paris tonight - people are going to stay up all night to look at contemporary art from around the world.  It sounds really interesting, but I think I’m going to pass because one of the assistants is throwing a party tonight in her flat.  I think it’s more important for me to meet the other people living in my town than go to a giant First Friday - but that’s just my opinion.  


I am just loving being here and meeting people.  I haven’t met many French people yet, but that will come.  I’m planning on joining some clubs and taking some cooking classes -- so maybe I’ll meet them there.  I also want to join an outdoor club, because they are always going on adventures and it’s a great way to meet the locals!


Orléans is just amazing!  I’m on a big adventure and I love it!